United States Eventing Association

Things I Couldn't Get Along Without In the Barn - Debbie's Must-Haves!

I’ve been in the horse business for 30 years with experience in show hunters, jumpers, race horses, breeding and, as of late, event horses. For the last 14 years, I owned and managed a boarding barn in Thompson Station, Tennessee. I competed event horses, many of them homebreds, from Beginner Novice to Intermediate levels. I also instructed and coached students through the same levels.

In September, 2006, I was injured competed at KY Classic Horse Trials. The result of that accident was a sever spinal cord injury confining me to a wheelchair. I am hoping that the knowledge I’ve gained through the years will be helpful to other horse people.

Click here to visit Debbie’s website!

(Above Photo: Mary Phelps from HorseDaily.com and Debbie. Photo courtesy of Mary Phelps.)

(Right Photo: Debbie & Melancholy Blues, 2005 Champagne Run, Intermediate. Palmer Video Photo)

Liquid Ivory Soap

· Scrubbing feed and water buckets;

· Cleaning brushes

· Washing off poultice

· Cleaning sheaths – works better than Excalibur, makes a better lather and rinses well. Not harsh, never had a problem with adverse reactions.

Vinegar

· Dilute rinse water with white vinegar. After a soapy bath, it will help rinse out the soap.

· Mix with fly spray, apparently flies hate the smell!

· Spray on your horse’s tail to stop itching, especially after a bath.

· I’ve heard that putting cider vinegar in the horse’s water will help repel flies, but I’ve never tried this.

Corn Oil

· Mix into feed for smooth coats that shed well

· Will increase calories for horses that are hard keepers

· A light coat painted on hooves work perfectly for FEI or Pony Club inspections. Doesn’t attract as much dust. Vegetable oil, being a little thinner consistency, works well, too.

Iodized Salt

· Mix into feed to increase drinking during winter months.

· Cheap form of electrolytes in summer months.

· Better if you don’t buy the store brand as the boxes don’t hold up, Morton’s is the best.

Keratex

· Apply to dry hooves covering the nail holes. Don’t apply to the hair. Keeps the water out preventing cracks from the nail holes. Apply right after shoeing for greatest effect. Hard to manage horses do well with an application before turnout. Works much better than products you can buy in a catalog. Your farrier may be able to order and sell it to you at a cheaper price.

· Also, used on the sole to harden and prevent a bruised foot. However, read the directions and do not apply to the frog. I found out the hard way and blistered a horse’s frog.

Alcohol (white or green)

· After a workout, use under bandages. Great liniment and doesn’t blister sensitive skin.

· The green kind with added wintergreen is just like more expensive medications.

· The white kind works great to clean wounds, prep injection sites.

· Also, whitens socks without irritation.

Baby Powder (Gold Bond works great)

· Under exercise boots to prevent chafing.

· Use in your own riding boots, makes getting into them easier.

· Also, use to get white socks clean (the cheap brand just doesn’t work).

Microtek Shampoo

· My favorite for getting rid of scabby skin which is often a winter time problem or when the grass has a lot of dew.

· More affordable that what vets prescribe.

Irish Reducine

· Clip the hair on the cornet band and brush Reducine into the area to increase hoof growth. Be careful, it will blister horses with sensitive skin – usually they will tell you when it hurts. Back off for a couple of days and then apply again.

· Also, use to reduce fresh splints. Again, clip the hair and brush (toothbrush works well) into skin. Blistering will occur so back off when the horse tells you to. Applying Furacin to relieve scurfing will help.

Biz

· Use as a whitener when washing saddle pads or white bandages. Doesn’t irritate skin.

Hydrophane

· Paint on leather that’s exposed to the elements such as halters left outside. Or, if you get caught in the rain, paint on all your tack. Good idea to paint new leather for the water proofing effect.

Listerine

· Kills bacteria that cause itching. Works well on manes and tails.

· Great for a sweat on filled up joints. Rub into swollen area, cover with Saran wrap and then bandage.

· After braiding, lightly spray between each braid. Rub in with your fingers, will prevent mane rubbing.

7% Iodine

· Keeps out infection. For instance after being shod, if your horse has a hot nail and the farrier pulls the nail. Then pour iodine into the hole. Best done with a syringe and needle.

· Apply to the navel of a newborn foal. Prevents joint ill.

· Paint on the sole of the horse’s foot to encourage hardening.

· Be careful as iodine will stain your hand and the horse’s hair. Helpful to put in a spray bottle.

Vaseline

· Apply to bare spots to encourage hair growth.

· Apply to the horse’s lips where the bit lays. Keeps this area soft, preventing sores.

· Foals occasionally get diarrhea often burning the hair under their tail. Apply Vaseline to soothe the area.

Betadine

· The skin scrub is a great wound cleaner. It creates a good lather making the cleaning easier. The Betadine solution will not lather.

I’m sure most horse people use these same products and could add to the list. But, the novice horse person might find these suggestions useful.